Rigoletto
By Jason Wilenski
Recently, eight of
us took a trip to historic Arthur Avenue in the Belmont
section of the Bronx for a holiday meal. While the
neighborhood has always been a mix of cultures, it
remains an Italian haven for bread, pasta, meat, cheese,
and desserts. Some refer to Arthur Avenue as the
"Little Italy" of the Bronx, but those in the know will tell you that it is
much more authentic than Little Italy.
In addition to the
shops on Arthur Avenue, there are a few great
restaurants including Rigoletto's. We have been to
Rigoletto's a few times in the past year, but have not
completed a review either because we drank too much to
remember the meal, or we all ordered the veal chop with
vinegar peppers and had no basis for a thorough
review. This time, we made a concerted effort to
order different items and keep notes.
While slightly dated, Rigoletto's has a pleasant atmosphere that
is casual, but slightly more formal than some of the other
restaurants on the avenue. As we sat down, the waiter brought
us the usual hunks of parmigianno reggiano cheese and tomato
bruscheta--an excellent start, especially with a bottle of
wine.
We then shared three
pastas: a linguine filetto di pomodoro (tomatoes, prosciutto
and onion), a gnocchi bolognese (a meat sauce), and a linguine
carbonara (cream, bacon, prosciutto, shallots and onion). As
usual, the filetto di pomodoro was great -- simple but
delicious; the gnocchi was light as it should be and the
bolognese sauce was a nice accompaniment. The carbonara
received mixed reviews from the eight of us, but I think it comes
down to personal preference -- some of us loved the rich and creamy
sauce while others felt it was a little heavy.
There was a little duplication on the entrees, but we still had a
good variety of dishes. I insisted on the veal chop with
vinegar peppers which is always a favorite; the chop is tender but
the flavor of the peppers is what makes the dish for me. The
snapper livornesa (with light tomato sauce, onions, olives and
capers) was well received. The stuffed roast veal
(stuffed with spinach) in a brown mushroom sauce was also very
good. The bracciole (rolled meat with prosciutto, pignoli
nuts, garlic and parmigianno cheese) was tasty but a little
dry. The chicken scarpariello (with sausage in a white wine,
lemon and garlic sauce) was very tasty and the chicken was
moist. The osso buco was tender and tasty with a brown gravy,
but it was not served with true arborio rice which was a little
disappointing. Finally, the veal sorrentino (with a wine
sauce) was tender but a little on the sweet side. While some
dishes were better than others, we were very satisfied
overall.
2311 Arthur Avenue
Bronx, NY
718-365-6644
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