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Caprese Salad

Caprese Salad
Recently I conducted a small poll on the Italian Chef Facebook page asking what kind of summer recipes people wanted to see more of here. No cook recipes like salads and cold antipasti narrowly beat out Italian grilling recipes. So, over the next couple of weeks I am going to feature some of my best salads and such, starting here with my own personal favorite summer dish, Caprese Salad.

This salad is simplicity at it’s best: tomatoes, mozzarella, olive oil and basil. It is very important that all of the ingredients be the best quality you can find. Tomatoes and basil fresh from your own garden or the local farmer’s market, your finest extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh mozzarrella from a source you trust.

In Campania, Insalata Caprese is made with local fresh buffalo mozzarella, one of the culinary delights of the region. Here in America, buffalo mozzarella is very hard to find so we substitute good quality cow’s milk mozzarella, called fior di latte in Italy. Even if you can find imported Mozzarella di Bufala in a specialty store, you are better off with good fresh cow’s milk mozzarella from a deli or cheese maker you trust, because buffalo mozzarella is best eaten as soon after it is made as possible and does not travel well.

Caprese Salad Recipe

Prep time:

Serves 4-6

2 pounds ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced 1/4 inch thick
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
5 to 8 fresh basil leaves
salt to taste

  1. Arrange tomato slices on a platter.

  2. Top each tomato with a slice of mozzarella. Season with salt to taste.

  3. Drizzle extra virgin olive oil over the mozzarella and tomato. Tear the basil leaves into pieces by hand or chiffonade cut, scatter on top and serve.

R.I.P. Paul Torre

Paul Torre

On June 8, Paul Torre, The Italian Chef who was the inspiration for this website and, more importantly, my father, passed away after a two year struggle with multiple diseases. I knew I wanted to write about this here because he was such a big part of this site, but it took me some time to be able to write what I wanted to say.

I started this website back in 1999, with the purpose of keeping my father’s recipes alive after he retired from the restaurant business. Born to Italian immigrants in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, his family moved back to Italy to escape the great depression shortly after his birth. When he was 18 he came back to America, settling in the New York metropolitan area, and began a 40+ year career as an accomplished chef. The last 19 years of that career were spent as chef/owner of his own Italian restaurant, La Villetta in Larchmont, NY.

When I started this website I was not much of a cook. Although, I had worked in the restaurant since I was a teenager, it was always in the front of the house as a waiter. The early process of trying to get recipes from a chef who did everything by feel was not easy. When I would ask him for amounts of ingredients I would get answers like “You know” and “Better too little than too much.” Eventually, we settled into a routine of cooking together with me taking the handfuls and pinches of ingredients from him, and measuring them. Those were great times that I will always cherish. As I became more comfortable with cooking over the years, and getting together to cook became more difficult, I would discuss a dish with him then go off on my own to work out measurements. When I was happy with my results I would then show him the recipe for approval and final tweaking. Cooking together and discussing food forged a bond between us that greatly added to an already special father-son relationship.

Sadly, he is gone now, so I no longer will have his direct input or advice on this website or life in general for that matter. He was not only a great chef, but a great father and I will miss him dearly. However, his spirit will always be by my side in the kitchen, and I will always apply the sensibility about and principles of Italian cooking that he instilled in me. Being a chef was not just a job for my father, he truly had a passion for cooking and hospitality. That passion is a gift that he gave to me, and I will continue the journey I started here with my dad.

I love you and miss you Dad.

Vanilla Gelato and Affogato

Affogato
This week I had a strong craving for Affogato, a simple but delicious Italian dessert that is made by pouring a shot of hot espresso over a scoop of vanilla gelato. Naturally, to make this I needed vanilla gelato. So, this was as good a time as ever to break out my ice cream machine, which I had not used for a while, and make the gelato myself.

As I have mentioned before, there are a couple of styles of gelato. There is Sicilian style, which is made without eggs or cream, just a base of milk with corn starch and sugar (called crema rinforzata). And there is Northern Italian style which is made from an egg based custard made with either milk only or a combination of milk and cream. The style I prefer is usually tied to the flavor. With fruit or nuts like pistacchio, it is definitely the Sicilian, which really highlights the flavor of those ingredients, but when making vanilla I prefer a custard based gelato.

Note: If you prefer, you can replace 1 cup of the milk in the following recipe with 1 cup of cream.

Vanilla Gelato Recipe

Prep time: | Total time:

Makes About 1 Quart

3 cups whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
4 egg yolks

  1. Stir the milk and sugar together in a medium sauce pan over medium heat and add the vanilla bean. Heat until bubbles begin to form around the edges. Remove the pan from the heat and steep for 15 minutes, then remove the vanilla bean.
  2. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks together. Slowly whisk the warm milk mixture into the egg yolks and transfer the mixture back to the sauce pan. Cook over medium heat stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until mixture thickens and coats the back of the spoon, 8 – 10 minutes and remove custard from heat to cool.
  3. Once cooled. transfer the custard to large bowl and refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours.
  4. Remove custard from refrigerator and process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.
  5. If serving Affogato, scoop gelato into a bowl and pour a freshly made shot of hot espresso over the top. Serve immediately.

Related Recipes:
Chocolate Gelato
Pistachio Gelato
Stracciatella Gelato

Linguine with White Puttanesca

Linguine with WhitePuttanesca
My last blog post featured Pasta alla Puttanesca, a classic Italian sauce made from tomatoes, olives, capers, anchovies and garlic. Tonight I was craving some of those flavors but did not want to make a tomato based sauce.

So I thought why not make kind of a Linguine Aglio e Olio (Linguine with Oil and Garlic), adding anchovies, olives and capers. Boy, was it good and it is even quicker to make than it’s tomato based counterpart. A perfect weeknight pasta dish. As for the name, “White Puttanesca” seemed a lot catchier than “Aglio e Olio with Anchovies, Olives and Capers”.

Linguine with White Puttanesca Recipe

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

Serves 4-6

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
6 anchovy fillets, chopped
pinch of salt
pinch of crushed red pepper
1 tablespoon capers
12 oil-cured black olives, pitted
1 pound linguine

  1. Bring a pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the linguine and cook uncovered over high heat until al dente.
  2. After you add the pasta to the pot, heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add garlic, anchovies, salt and red pepper. Cook until garlic starts to soften.
  3. Add capers and olives, and oregano. Continue cooking until garlic is lightly browned.
  4. Drain pasta, add to pan with the sauce and stir vigorously until well combined and the linguine is coated with the oil.

Pasta Puttanesca

Spaghetti alla Puttanesca

Puttanesca Sauce is loosely translated to “street walker’s sauce.” There are a lot of stories about how this name came about. The most popular is that prostitutes used to make Pasta alla Puttanesca and put it out on the windowsill so that the aroma would attract prospective clients. Kind of a silly story, but people seem to like it.

Now, lets talk about anchovies. I know there are probably a lot of people out there who think they don’t like anchovies, and may be tempted to make this excluding them. You certainly can do that if you want, but I am going to ask you nicely not to. Please try it at least once with the anchovies. Chopped up they practically dissolve into the oil when sautéing them, so you don’t have to worry about biting directly into or tasting anchovy. What you will taste, however, is a depth of flavor that will be missing if they are left out. Trust me.

Spaghetti alla Puttanesca Recipe

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

Serves 4-6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, chopped
6 anchovy fillets, chopped
pinch of crushed red pepper
1 35 oz can imported italian plum tomatoes, crushed with their juices
1 tablespoon capers
12 gaetta olives, pitted
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1 pound spaghetti

  1. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add garlic, anchovy, and red pepper cook until garlic is lightly browned.
  2. Crush tomatoes and add with juices. Fill the empty tomato can 1/4 of the way with water and pour into the pan. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, then reduce to a simmer.
  3. Add capers, olives, and oregano. Cook at a simmer for 20 minutes, until sauce thickens.
  4. While the sauce is cooking bring a pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the Linguini and cook uncovered over high heat until al dente.
  5. Drain pasta, toss with sauce and serve.

Grilled Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus

Grilled Asparagus Wrapped in Prosciutto
We have actuallly had a Baked Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus recipe on the site for years. But lately, I find myself making it on the grill much more often. The prosciutto gets nice and crispy and you get a smokey flavor, expecially if you use charcoal. Plus, this recipe is about as easy as it gets. If you want you can top it with some shaved or grated Parmigianno-Reggiano cheese as soon as you take it off the grill, while it is still hot.

Grilled Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus Recipe

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

Serves 4

16 large asparagus spears, tough ends removed
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
salt & pepper to taste
16 slices Prosciutto di Parma, sliced thin

  1. Place the asparagus in a baking dish or bowl. Add the extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss until the asparagus are well coated.
  2. Wrap each asparagus spear in one slice of prosciutto.
  3. Grill over direct medium heat on a gas or charcoal grill, turning occasionally, until prosciutto is crisp and asparagus are tender, but not limp. About 10 minutes.
  4. Transfer to a platter and serve hot.

Saltimbocca alla Romana

Saltimbocca alla Romana
Saltimbocca is a classic Roman veal dish. In fact, it is so typically Roman that the name Saltimbocca alla Romana seems redundant to me. But, that’s what it was called on my father’s menu, so I am sticking with it.

This is a great dish to serve for company. Plate it over some sautèed spinach and it will make quite an impression. The literal translation of saltimbocca is “jump in the mouth”, and that’s precisely what this tasty combination of veal, prosciutto, sage and white wine will do.

Saltimbocca alla Romana Recipe

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

Serves 4

8 slices prosciutto
8 veal scalloppine, thinly sliced and pounded
flour spread on a plate for dredging
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
8 sage leaves
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup chicken broth
salt and pepper to taste

  1. Place one slice of prosciutto on each veal scalloppine and pound in lightly with a meat pounder.
  2. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Dredge both sides of the scalloppine in flour to coat, shaking off any excess. Place them prosciutto side down in pan and cook, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides. Transfer to a warm plate.
  3. Drain oil from pan, place back over heat and add butter. When butter is melted add sage and sauté for one minute.
  4. Add the white wine and scrape loose any bits from bottom of pan, then add the chicken broth and salt and pepper.
  5. Place scalloppine back in pan, prosciutto side up and cook until sauce is reduced by half and scalloppine are heated through.
  6. Transfer veal to serving plates, two scalloppine per person, spoon sauce over top and serve.

The Great Cherry Pepper Hunt of 2011

Stuffed Peppers
The week after Christmas, I was chatting with my friend Mark on IM. He was telling me about the Christmas Eve fish dinner his Mother (she is originally from Naples) made. He was running down the list, Linguine con Vongole, Fried Calamari, etc. While it sounded like a great dinner, it didn’t really excite me that much, because I am allergic to shellfish. But, all of a sudden he said “Vinegar Peppers stuffed with anchovies.” I stopped him dead in his tracks, I had to know about these peppers. As he told me about the stuffing, my mouth started to water: bread, anchovies, olives, pignoli. I had to make them.

I had one question though, what kind of peppers? I figured they weren’t hot cherry peppers, but you never see sweet cherry peppers in the store anymore. He told me they were the sweet cherry peppers, but they are really hard to find. His mom keeps an eye out for them all year long, the ones she used this year (Sclafani brand) she bought in June! Still, I figured I could find them somehow, so I needed the recipe. Mark promptly got her on the phone, and transcribed the recipe into IM:

very difficult to take the stem and seeds out
slow
take stem and seeds out
very difficult
good italian bread in food processor
just the white
in the food processor also put chopped garlic and parseley
put in a bowl
add to bowl anchovies, quantity: you know, depending on phil
add to bowl capers, quantity: COME ON, same, depending on phil!!!
add to bowl olives: sliced black olives, quantity: depends
add to bowl pinnoli: quantity: depends
add to bowl shredded parmesan cheese
add to bowl olive oil
add to bowl a little water, enough to make it formeable
needs to bee done by hands
fill vinegar peppers
and then fry them UPSIDE DOWN until brown, flip and then cook bottom
let cool, very important
eat!!!

Not exactly a precise recipe, but that’s pretty much how my father always gives me recipes, so I could work with it. Now I had to procure the hard to find sweet cherry peppers. I knew I could probably order them over the internet, but I wanted to try finding them in a store if I could, for two reasons: first I didn’t want to have to pay for shipping, which can be kind of high with food products. Second, the thrill of the chase!

I tried every local supermarket, nothing. Checked deli’s and food specialty stores. Even called places I knew carried Sclafani products, “You mean Hot Cherry Peppers,” they asked? Talking to me like I was a Martian. Having no luck, I turned to the Internet. I found the Sclafani Sweet Cherry Peppers here and ordered them. I got a PayPal payment confirmation email and nothing else.

After over a month, I called the contact phone number, and got a guy on a cell phone. He informed me that the only place they are shipped from was in North Carolina, and they had been closed down since the Holidays due to a snow storm, and he did not know when they would be shipping. He then told me that if I ever wanted to order again to just call his cell phone instead of using the web site, and he would take care of me.

Needless to say, I was not confident they would ever come. So, back to the internet. I found Mezzette brand cherry peppers at www.buythecase.net (they are not there anymore), and ordered a case. They came within a couple of weeks, but the peppers were tiny and I was worried they would be too small, and a pain to stuff. The very next day the Sclafani’s showed up at my doorstep.

I decided I would try both, the tiny Mezzete peppers and the larger Sclafani. Even though the small ones were a little tougher to stuff, I got the hang pretty quickly, and I have to say I preferred them to the larger ones.

Stuffed Vinegar Peppers Recipe

1 loaf Italian bread
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsely, chopped
8 anchovies, chopped
10 oil-cured black olives, pitted and sliced
2 tablespoons capers
1 tablespoon pine nuts (pignoli)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmagianno-Reggiano Cheese
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
12-15 jarred sweet cherry peppers
vegetable oil for frying

  1. Take the white from the Italian bread and place it in a food processor, and pulse until ground coarse. Should make about 1 cup, you, may not need to use whole loaf. Add the garlic and parsley and pulse until well combined. Transfer to a bowl.
  2. Add the anchovies, olives, capers, pine nuts, cheese and olive oil. Mix well, adding a tablespoon or two of cold water, to make it easy to handle.
  3. Using a small paring knife, cut each pepper around the stem, removing the stem, then with either the paring knife or your hands clean out the seeds, from inside the pepper. Stuff the peppers with the stuffing
  4. Fill a medium sautè pan about a quarter of the way up with vegetable oil, and heat over medium heat. When oil is hot, add peppers, top down and cook until top is browned, flip and cook a few minutes more.
  5. Transfer to a serving plate and let cool to room temperature before serving, or refrigerating for later.

My Favorite Weeknight Pasta Dish

Pasta With Grape Tomatoes
For me, a good weeknight dinner must possess two essential qualities:

  1. It must be relatively quick and easy to prepare.
  2. It has to be tasty enough to make me actually want to cook after a hard day at work. It’s much easier to get motivated if, as the work day ends, I am eagerly anticipating dinner.

My favorite weeknight pasta dish, Pasta with Grape Tomatoes, satisfies both of those requirements perfectly. I have been making this dish so regularly lately that every time I am in the supermarket I pick up a pint of grape tomatoes knowing that I will be using them in the near future. My wife, Sandy, likes capellini and I like spaghetti, so the spaghettini became our little compromise. But, you can actually use any pasta you prefer or happen to have on hand.

Pasta with Grape Tomatoes Recipe

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

Serves 4

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves sliced thin
1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
salt to taste
1 pound spaghettini pasta
2 large basil leaves, torn into pieces by hand
freshly grated Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese for serving

  1. Add olive oil and garlic to a large sautè pan over medium heat. Cook until garlic is lightly browned, then add the sliced tomatoes, red pepper flakes, and salt.
  2. Saute the tomatoes until they are softened and have started to release their juices, about 5 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, bring a pot of liberally salted water to a boil, add pasta and cook until al dente.
  4. Strain pasta and transfer to the sautè pan with the sauce. Add the basil, and toss until completely coated.
  5. Dish out into individual serving bowls and serve with grated Parmagiano-Reggiano.

Sunday Dinner: Green and White Pappardelle Bolognese

Pappardelle Bolognese

A few weeks back I was at Borgatti’s pasta shop, down in the Arthur Avenue area in the Bronx. While I was waiting for my ravioli I saw the guy at the counter cutting up some sheets of green(spinach) and white pasta into pappardelle. It looked so good I thought of getting some for myself, but ended up leaving with just the ravioli.

Cutting Pappardelle

The image of that pappardelle haunted me the rest of the day, I really regretted not getting some. On the way back to Connecticut, we stopped at my parent’s house, and I told my Mom about it. “That would be great with Bolognese sauce,” Mom said. “I love Pappardelle Bolognese.” The seed was officially planted.

This past Sunday I did not make it down to Arthur Avenue, but I did buy some sheets of green and white pasta from a local pasta shop. I took them home and cut them into pappardelle, which are usually 3/4 to 1 inch wide ribbons of pasta, and substituted them into my Tagliatelle alla Bolognese recipe. Perfect for Sunday dinner.

Green and White Pappardelle

So, that’s my recommendation to you for Sunday dinner this weekend, make a nice Bolognese sauce and toss it with some fresh pappardelle pasta. If you can find both spinach and regular pasta, great. If not just use white. Substitute it for the tagliatelle in the recipe below and you are good to go.

Recipe:
Tagliatelle alla Bolognese