Baldoria
By Jason Wilensky
There was great anticipation the
night we visited Baldoria, the new restaurant from Rao's heir
apparent, Frank Pelligrino Jr. Three of us had been fortunate
enough to visit Rao's last year in what is one of my most memorable
restaurant experiences. Unfortunately, our experience at
Baldoria pales in comparison with that magical night at Rao's.
Things got off to a bad start when the waiter pressured us to
order everything right away because of the crowd in the
restaurant. For some of us, it "felt like buying a car" as we
went through the menu with the waiter as quickly as possible so that
we could get our order into the kitchen. It didn't help that
the waiter was not Italian and had less knowledge of the cuisine
than we did. We concluded that the waiter "was good for the
house".
Our appetizer choices included clams oreganto, cheese &
olives, seafood salad, and a variety of Italian meats. Some of
us enjoyed the clams while others felt they were overcooked.
The other appetizers were all relatively enjoyable but with skimpy
portions.
The pastas we ordered were Gnocchi Bolognese, Rigatoni Filetto di
Pomodoro, and Orichiette with Sausage & Broccoli Rabe. The
consensus on the pastas was the gnocchi and the rigatoni were very
good, while the orichiette was lacking. Again, portions were
too small.
Entrees ordered included Lemon Chicken,
Shrimp Scampi, and Veal Pizzaiola. All entrees were considered
subpar. The scampi lacked flavor, the chicken was dry, and the
veal seemed like it "came from a pizzeria". We also ordered
one veal chop which wasn't tender. Desserts are all homemade
-- we ordered the cheesecake, gelato, and chocolate pudding.
The cheescake was very good, but the other desserts were "fair".
While the atmosphere was tasteful, the service was poor(we are
still waiting for the coffee we ordered) and the background music
was much too loud. There were numerous spills on us and even
broken glasses. Of course, the restaurant just opened and it is
probably experiencing some start-up snafus. Nevertheless, our
crew felt the problems were simply too overwhelming to warrant a
second visit.
Prices were on the high side for
family style Italian (appetizers around $12, pastas around $19, and
entrees around $25).
The best part about the evening was listening
to the Torre family stories about the old days of running their
family restaurant. Despite numerous ridiculous situations over
the years, the Torre family restaurant never saw nights as sad as
the night we visited Baldoria. Buyer
beware.
249 West 49th Street
New York, NY
212-582-0460
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